Alpine Butterfly

Description

The alpine butterfly creates a secure, fixed loop in the middle of a rope that can be loaded from three directions without deforming. It is well-known for being able to take strain in any direction and is easy to untie after heavy loading. The knot has a distinctive symmetrical appearance.

Common Uses

Used by climbers and mountaineers to isolate a damaged section of rope, create a central anchor point, or provide a clip-in point on a rope team.

When to Choose This Knot

Choose this knot when you need a loop that can connect to a post, ring, hook, carabiner, handle, or another rope part. Loop knots differ in whether they stay fixed, cinch down, or remain easy to untie after loading.

Safety Notes

• Confirm whether the loop is intended to be fixed or sliding before applying load.
• For climbing or rescue, use only knots and rope systems approved by your training program or local standard.
• Check that the standing part, tail, and loop are oriented correctly before loading.

How to Tie

1. 1Wrap the rope around your hand three times, forming three parallel coils.
2. 2Take the middle coil and fold it over the outer two coils.
3. 3Pass the folded coil under the outer coils and up through the gap.
4. 4Pull outward to form the loop while holding the standing ends.
5. 5Tighten by pulling both standing ends and the loop separately.
6. 6Dress so the knot shows a symmetrical butterfly pattern.

Common Mistakes

• Confusing a fixed loop with a noose or running loop.
• Loading the loop from an unintended angle.
• Skipping a backup knot where the application requires one.

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