Garda Hitch
Description
A friction hitch used in mechanical advantage systems and progress capture. It creates a self-locking mechanism that grips in one direction and slides in the other. It uses two carabiners on the same rope.
Common Uses
Progress capture in hauling systems, mechanical advantage (Z-rig), caving and rescue systems.
When to Choose This Knot
Choose this knot only in the context of proper climbing instruction, inspected equipment, and a complete safety system. Climbing knots are not isolated tricks; they interact with harnesses, carabiners, anchors, belay devices, and partner checks.
Safety Notes
- Use professional instruction and follow the standards of your climbing gym, guide, rescue team, or local authority.
- Perform a partner check before every load-bearing use.
- Retire damaged rope and never experiment with unverified knots at height.
How to Tie
- 1Clip the rope into two carabiners that are gated opposite and opposed.
- 2The rope forms an S-shape between the two carabiners.
- 3When loaded, the carabiners pinch the rope, creating friction.
- 4When unloaded, the rope slides freely through the carabiners.
Common Mistakes
- Practicing the knot correctly once and then skipping inspection under real conditions.
- Using the wrong carabiner orientation or anchor geometry.
- Replacing supervised training with a web article.