Friction Hitch
Also known as:Bachmann Knot
Description
A friction hitch that uses a carabiner to assist in sliding. The cord wraps around both the main rope and a carabiner. Slides easily when the carabiner is held but grips when weight is applied. Also called the Bachmann Knot.
Common Uses
Ascending ropes, adjusting anchor positions, crevasse rescue systems where easy sliding is needed.
When to Choose This Knot
Choose this knot only in the context of proper climbing instruction, inspected equipment, and a complete safety system. Climbing knots are not isolated tricks; they interact with harnesses, carabiners, anchors, belay devices, and partner checks.
Safety Notes
- Use professional instruction and follow the standards of your climbing gym, guide, rescue team, or local authority.
- Perform a partner check before every load-bearing use.
- Retire damaged rope and never experiment with unverified knots at height.
How to Tie
- 1Clip a carabiner to your harness. Place the cord loop over the carabiner.
- 2Wrap the cord around the main rope and through the carabiner 3-4 times.
- 3Keep the wraps parallel and close together.
- 4Grip the carabiner to slide the knot; release to lock.
Common Mistakes
- Practicing the knot correctly once and then skipping inspection under real conditions.
- Using the wrong carabiner orientation or anchor geometry.
- Replacing supervised training with a web article.